Brazil & Argentina Travel: FAQs

Brazil has a reciprocal visa system. If you are arriving from a country that requires Brazilians to have a visa to travel to your country, then you are required to obtain a visa to enter Brazil. These countries include the United States, Canada, New Zealand, and Australia. Citizens of the UK, Ireland, South Africa and most European Union nations are not required to have a visa. In order to obtain a visa, you should look up the website of the Brazilian consulate closest to where you live, which should have information on that office’s requirements for obtaining the visa. The visa must be obtained in person, but you can hire a visa service to handle the details and appear for you to obtain it. This generally involves filling out a form and then mailing your passport to the visa service; they will obtain the visa at the consulate and then mail the passport back to you. There are numerous passport and visa service companies, which you can see by googling “Brazil visa.”

Upon entrance to Brazil all tourists are required to fill out a cartao de entrada/saida or entrance/exit card. The immigration officials will keep one half of the card while you keep the other half, which you will then give to the immigration officials upon your departure. Please keep this card in a safe place so as not to lose it. The international airport departure tax for Brazil is approximately $36 (subject to change).

For more information, visit the Department of State´s website and choose Brazil: http://travel.state.gov/travel/

Argentina

You will need a valid passport to enter Argentina, and it must be valid 6 months beyond your dates of travel. No visas are currently required if you are from the U.S., Canada, and most western European countries. There is a “reciprocity fee” of $160 for U.S. citizens arriving into Argentina for the first time (apparently it is a “reciprocity fee” because the U.S. charges the same fee to foreign visitors) and is valid the duration of your passport. This fee must be paid before arrival. To pay this fee, please visit the following site: http://virtual.provinciapagos.com.ar/ArgentineTaxes/

If you are going to Iguazu Falls and plan to visit the Brazilian side, you will need to get a visa for Brazil prior to your trip. Also, airport departure taxes are generally included in the price of the airfare. However, some smaller Argentine airports charge a departure tax upon exit which would be payable in cash and if the price of the tax increased since when the ticket was purchased, the difference would have to be paid in the airport upon departure.

For more information, visit the Department of State´s website and choose Argentina: http://travel.state.gov/travel/

2. Weather

Brazil

In Rio the summer months can be quite humid with temperatures reaching into the mid 80’s, and this is the wettest time of year. Most of the precipitation during the summer months comes in the form of quick downpours lasting 1-2 hours before clearing up. During the winter months the temperatures drop a bit to the mid 70s, with a mix of rain and sun. These weather conditions hold true for much of Brazil’s coast line north of Rio, with slightly higher temperatures in the northern cities such as Salvador, Recife and Fortaleza.

In Sao Paulo and to the south the weather has a larger variation in the climate, with winter month temperatures often falling into the 40s and 50s.

The Amazon and Pantanal receive the most rain, with high precipitation throughout most of the year and temperatures consistently in the 80s and 90s in the Amazon and slightly lower than that in the Pantanal. The Pantanal and Amazon generally experience a dry period from around July to September, when there is significantly less rain.

Iguazu has a sub-tropical climate, and is surrounded by rainforest, with temperatures varying from the 60s and 70s (June and July) up into the 80s and 90s (December and January). It is also an area of high precipitation. April to July is the period of least rain, and during this time the falls can diminish in size.

For more detailed information including up to date weather forecasts in all the major cities in Brazil, please visit the following website: http://www.accuweather.com/en/br/brazil-weather

Argentina

The climate varies from place to place in Argentina, as the geography is incredibly varied, and the seasons are not entirely predictable, so please take the following as a guide and be prepared for changes in climate.

Buenos Aires has a climate like that of a southern American city, such as Atlanta. In their summer months (Dec to March), it can be very hot, into the 80s and 90s during the day. In the winter months (June to Sept), it can be quite cold, down into the 40s. In the shoulder seasons of fall and spring the temperatures are mild and pleasant.

Many people traveling to Argentina will be heading to Patagonia or to the Lakes District at some point during their stay. Patagonia has weather like Alaska, with a mix of sun, rain and wind on almost any given day. From October to mid April the temperatures vary from the 40s to mid 60s during the day, sometimes a bit higher for stretches when the sun stays out. At night it will typically be in the 30s but can drop down into the 20s. The wind in Patagonia is highly variable, and you should be prepared for strong winds by having some type of shell over layer or other wind protecting jacket. Long underwear is another good thing to have for a trip to Patagonia, particularly if you will be doing any hiking.

The Lakes District (Bariloche region) has a climate like the Pacific Northwest of the United States, but with the seasons reversed. There is a cool mountain climate from October to April, with temperatures averaging around 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Though this is the drier part of the year, rain is still common, but it generally won’t last all day. The wet season is from May/June to October, and it rains fairly predictably during these times, though there can be periods of better weather. This is another area of the country where it is essential to have the proper clothing for outdoor activities if you plan on hiking or spending time outside.

For more detailed information including up to date weather forecasts in all the major cities in Argentina, please visit the following website: http://www.accuweather.com/en/ar/argentina-weather

3. Packing Lists

Laundry Service: All hotels have laundry service at reasonable rates, with the exception of some jungle lodges, which generally do not provide laundry services.

Documents

Passport & Visa (for Brazil)
Airline Tickets
Full itinerary
This pre-departure information

Luggage

Day pack or small backpack
Suitcase/duffel bag

Clothing

Short sleeved cotton or lightweight synthetic material shirts
Long sleeved cotton or lightweight synthetic material shirts
Pants: cotton pants are generally recommended for any warm areas (khakis or jeans); and breathable polyester/synthetic hiking pants for any part of the trip where you will be in variable weather (they are warmer and dry faster than cotton).
Sweaters/pullovers
Shorts or skirts
Bathing suit
Socks & Underwear (hiking socks if will be hiking)
Thermal underwear (aka long underwear, highly recommended for Patagonia)
Wide brimmed hat for the sun
Fleece jacket or other insulating layer (essential in Patagonia)
Raincoat/shell/poncho (essential in Patagonia)
Gloves and warm hat (essential in Patagonia)
Walking/hiking shoes
Hiking boots (for any trips with extended hiking days)
Neck Scarf (highly recommended for Patagonia trips)

Other essential gear:

Photocopy of passport (keep in a separate place from the original)
Sunglasses
Sunscreen (SPF 15 or more)
Sun-blocking lip salve
Insect repellent
Spare eyeglasses (if you wear eyeglasses)
Light weight binoculars (this is essential if going to the Amazon or Pantanal)

Toiletries

Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss
Moisturizing lotion
Shaving gear

Other useful gear:

Light weight binoculars (excellent for observing wildlife and birds)
Photography/video gear
Spare batteries for your camera or other electric devices
Favorite snacks that you probably won’t be able to get while traveling

Medical Kit Suggestions

Ibuprofen or aspirin
Imodium or other anti diarrheal
Band Aids
Neosporin or other antibiotic ointment
Antiseptic towelettes

Photo and Video Equipment

Camera: an SLR or a more compact version if you don’t want to carry the extra weight around. You might also want to purchase a disposable camera in case of camera failure.
Lenses
Polarizing filter
Spare batteries
Tripod
Video cameras: bring at least two batteries.

4. Emergency Contact Information

You will receive local contact information, including 24 hour emergency contact numbers, with your Final Itinerary.

U.S. Embassy in Argentina Contact Information
Address: Avenida Colombia 4300, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Telephone: (54) (11) 5777-4533
Emergency after-hours telephone: (54) (11) 5777-4873
Fax: (54) (11) 5777-4293

U.S. Embassy in Brazil Contact Information
Address: SES 801 – Avenida das Nacoes, Lote 3, Brasilia, Brazil
Telephone: 011-55-61-3312-7000
Emergency after-hours telephone: 011-55-61-3312-7400
Fax: 011-55-61-3312-7676

Vaya Adventures Contact Information
Phone: (510) 548-8487
After hours: (510) 809-6261
Email: info@vayaadventures.com

5. Electricity

In Argentina the electrical system is 220 volts, while in the US it’s 110 volts, so for your devices to work without a transformer they must be suitable for both 220 and 110 (it should say this on the device; many modern devices can handle both types of current). It can destroy the device if it is not compatible with 220 volts and you plug it into a wall socket. Argentina uses either the European two-prong or the Australian slanted plugs on most wall electrical outlets. You should bring an adaptor (available at most hardware stores or travel stores for about $2) if you want to be able to plug your electrical devices into wall sockets.
In Rio and Sao Paulo they use 110 or 120 volts (the same as the US and Canada) while in Recife and Brasilia they use 220 volts (the same and Europe) and in Manaus and Salvador they use 127 volts.

6. Money

How much to bring: For a 10-12 day trip, about $500 per person in U.S. dollars should be sufficient to cover some cash expenses and provide you with some emergency money. You will be able to get local money while traveling from ATMs so you do not need to plan to bring all the money you’ll need on the trip. Some people prefer to carry less or more U.S. currency with them while traveling; it really depends on what you think you will want to purchase and whether you plan to try to pay for all expenses with a credit card. If you pay with a credit card, there is generally a 2-3% additional charge for converting the currency. This might be worth it just for the convenience of not having to carry so much cash (and changing cash also has fees).
The currency in Argentina is the peso. American dollars are accepted in many places in Argentina, from grocery stores to taxis. However, often your change will be in pesos, so you should know what the exchange rate is. Also, it will be difficult to get change for larger denominations, so try to make sure if you’re carrying dollars to have some in small denominations ($1 and $5).
The currency in Brazil is the Real. Like in Argentina, US dollars are accepted in many places, although it is always helpful to be familiar with the current exchange rate since many times your change will be in reals. Large denominations of US dollars and even reals can be hard exchange at times and it is recommended to try and always carry some small denominations of either reals or dollars.
Getting money while in Argentina and Brazil: There are ATMs at the banks in most of the major tourist centers, and they are often the best way to change money if you need pesos or reals, as they usually have the best exchange rates (better than banks). They work the same way they do in the U.S. Look for the Cirrus or Plus signs and use whichever machines are affiliated with your network (you should have a Cirrus or Plus sign, or both, on the back of your bank card). You may encounter a problem with one here and there; it can help to try a couple different machines. Outside of the major tourist areas, it will be very difficult to find ATMs (or ones in the Cirrus or Plus network), so you should plan to have as much money as you need in pesos if you are going to remote areas (and also plan on having smaller denominations). In case of a lost or stolen ATM card it is also advised to have access to money through another card or bank account.
Traveler’s checks are an option, but you might run into problems with getting them accepted in some places, and they generally cost 1-2% more than the equivalent in dollars. Personal checks will probably not be accepted.
Credit cards: All major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, American Express) are generally accepted in the major tourist centers, though usage outside those areas will be limited. In some locations Visa is more readily accepted than the others.
Contacting your bank: You should always inform your bank about your trip to avoid the possibility of the bank denying a charge based on suspected fraud. This goes for both your ATM card and your credit cards.

7. Communications

Bringing your smartphone
If you plan to bring a smartphone to use for making calls while traveling, you should contact your carrier prior to travel to let them know and find out if they have any traveler plans that provide discounted roaming rates in the countries you will be visiting. Without some type of discounted plan, roaming fees can be very high, and the phone settings (specifically whether you have the phone set up just for Wi-Fi or also for roaming) can make a huge difference in the costs you will incur. Your specific carrier should be able to give you detailed information about how to avoid costly roaming rates and how to adjust the settings on your particular smartphone.

Telephones
Argentina and Brazil have very good and generally inexpensive phone systems if you want to make local and national calls from landlines.

Local calls
You can make local calls from your hotel or from local telephone calling centers, which can be found in the major tourist areas and larger towns. You will get considerably better rates at the calling centers. You can ask at any hotel where they are located and they will be able to tell you. Pre-paid calling cards are also available in many convenience stores and can be a convenient way to avoid needing change to make calls.

International Calls
The cost of making international calls from your hotel can be very high, often $5 a minute or more. You will get much better rates at the local telephone calling centers (“centro de llamadas” or “cabinas para llamadas internacionales”), which you will be able to find in the larger towns and tourist centers. You can make collect calls back to the U.S. from almost any phone by dialing an international operator. Again, these rates will probably be very high. If you are bringing a laptop or even just a Wi-Fi enabled smartphone, probably the easiest way to call back to the U.S. is via Skype. You should set up your account prior to traveling and be sure you have some credit on it; you can then make calls through any Wi-Fi network. If you don’t have a computer or smartphone with Wi-Fi, probably the best option is to ask at your hotel or in a store where the closest calling center is if you plan to make many international calls. If you speak some Spanish, another good option if you plan to make a lot of international calls is to buy an international pre-paid calling card (rates are generally very low). These can be purchased in many convenience stores or magazine kiosks and then used at payphones to call internationally (though instructions will usually only be in Spanish).

Fax
Fax machines are generally available at hotels and businesses. Just ask at the hotel for the closest available fax.

Internet Access
Internet access is readily available in Argentina and Brazil in all the tourist areas and larger population centers and at most hotels they now provide free internet access and have computers available in common areas for guests to use (so you generally don’t need to bring a laptop if all you want to do is check your email online).

8. Health

Generally, Argentina and Brazil are very safe places to travel. The most common ailment to affect travelers to any destination in South or Central America is traveler’s diarrhea, and while it is definitely a less common occurrence in Argentina than in many other South American countries, it can still occur. The best way to avoid it is to be careful about what you eat. Some basic rules:

Eat only fruit that you can peel when buying it at markets or on the street.
Wash your hands frequently with soap and dry them thoroughly, and don’t bite your nails or otherwise put your fingers in your mouth.
Don’t buy food (other than unpeeled fruit) from street vendors, and try to focus on eating at places that look like they take care in the preparation of their food. If a lot of foreigners eat there, it’s almost certainly safe to eat there.
The tap water in Buenos Aires and Rio is generally considered safe to drink (in Rio it may not taste great because it is heavily treated, so you may want to drink bottled water in any event); in more rural areas it is probably best to drink bottled water. This is definitely the case in the Amazon and the Pantanal.

For additional information about health issues in specific places, including recommended vaccinations and inoculations, you can visit www.tripprep.com, a non-governmental site that contains health related information on other nations. Another option is the website of the Center for Disease Control at www.cdc.gov. Please keep in mind that the CDC errs on the side of caution, and that there may be varying opinions on the need for specific vaccinations and inoculations. The standard immunizations for typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, and polio are generally recommended for travel to South and Central America. You may already have received these shots or boosters and don’t need them. If you have any doubts, you should visit a travel health specialist and begin to have all of your vaccinations recorded on an International Health Certificate.

Note: If you are traveling to the Amazon please go through the links provided above or visit a tropical medicine specialist to find out what current vaccinations they recommend or may be required.

9. Travel Insurance

We strongly recommend that all of our travelers purchase travel insurance. Travel insurance can help cover many things, including baggage loss, missed connections, trip interruption, and medical emergency (including medical evacuation costs), resulting from a wide variety of circumstances, including illness or extreme weather that results in the cancellation of your trip. It can also help protect you in the event of loss of non-refundable trip deposits and payments that result from cancellation or trip interruption. Families traveling together, in particular, can benefit from traveler’s insurance, due to the high investment in the trip and the increased risk of one person’s illness resulting in the entire trip being cancelled. There are many companies that provide trip insurance. We offer insurance through Allianz, and their most popular plan is the Classic Plan. You can view details of this plan by clicking on this link: Allianz Classic Plan, or by visiting the Allianz website at www.allianztravelinsurance.com.

10. Tipping

In restaurants, a 10% tip is customary. Cabs do not generally expect tips, but rounding off fares upward is fairly typical.

Guides/drivers: If you have a private guide for a full day, an average tip would be somewhere in the range of $10-$12 per day, per person. It can be less, it can be more, but this is a typical range. If you go on a shorter trip of a half day, the tip would basically be proportional to what proportion of the day you spent with the guide. If half a day, $5-$8 per person would be a typical range. If there are additional people involved, drivers, crew of a boat, etc., you may want to give them something as well. About 1/3 of what you give the guide himself would be an appropriate benchmark for each of these individuals. For families with children, we suggest giving 50% of the normal per person amount for each child. This is completely at your discretion and you should give what you feel comfortable giving.

For drivers who do airport transfers or other short rides, you shouldn’t feel the need to tip every single time you are getting out of a vehicle. It’s not the case that drivers are expecting a tip every time they take you somewhere. If you have a driver in a city who takes you to and from the airport and you have the chance to give him or her a few dollars (maybe $2 per ride) at the end of the last ride, that’s great and will be appreciated.

If you stay at a place where all meals are included, you may also want to leave some type of tip at the end for the service staff (they often have some type of tipping jar or other way to give a tip to the waiters and other staff). Approximately $5 per person per day is a suggested amount. These types of tips are totally discretionary.

Please note that you can give tips in dollars, but they generally prefer to get tips in local currency, so you might want to plan ahead in terms of how much local currency you will bring to certain locations. For example, if you are going to El Calafate to an estancia, you won’t have any place to change money down there, so you should have cash in local currency sufficient to cover your anticipated tips for your time there. Our suggestion would be to get a few hundred dollars in local currency at the airport ATM when you arrive and then take that with you to spend during the trip in other locations, either on tips, meals, or items to bring back home with you.

11. Reading Recommendations

Argentina

In Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin. A highly acclaimed short travelogue by a British writer who journeyed down through Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. Contains many insightful sketches of the people and places in this region of the world.

Insight Guide: Argentina. Extraordinary photographs and highly informative essays on a wide variety of topics, written by experts in their fields. A good overview of the country.

Evita, The Real Life of Eva Peron, by Nicholas Fraser. A good, balanced biography of Evita, following her from humble origins to her place as a revered cult figure. It is also a revealing look at Peronism and Argentinian politics of the 1930s and 1940s.

Gauchos and the Vanishing Frontier, by Richard Slatta. A thorough, lively study of the gaucho, including the history and culture of Argentina and Brazil’s famous cowboys.

And the Money Kept Rolling In (and Out): Wall Street, the IMF, and the Bankrupting of Argentina, by Paul Blustein. A readable and lively account of the financial crisis of 2001 and how international financial institutions mishandled it.

Labyrinths: Selected Stories and Other Writings, by Jorge Luis Borges. Either this or another collection entitled Fictions is a good introduction to this Argentine writer, one of the giants of 20th century literature. Both are collections of short stories and other writings.

The Uttermost Part of the Earth: A History of Tierra del Fuego and the Fuegians, by E. Lucas Bridges. A must read for anyone going to Tierra del Fuego. Written by the son of the first European settler in Tierra del Fuego, it relates the story of his family’s life with the local indigenous peoples and the history of the Estancia Harberton. A classic.

Brazil

A Death in Brazil, by Peter Robb. Written by a man who has spent over 20 years in Brazil, Robb delves into Brazil’s history while including many of his own more recent experiences and travels.

Through the Brazilian Wilderness, by Theodore Roosevelt. An account of a 9 month expedition up a previously unexplored tributary of the Amazon by the former president in 1914. Not a literary masterpiece but makes for interesting reading.

Rebellion in the Backlands, by Euclides de Cunha. Recommended. Published in 1902, a Brazilian classic that is part anthropology, part geology, part history, and part sociology. It tells the incredible story of the Canudos rebellion that took place in northeast Brazil in the late 19^th century.

The War of the End of the World, by Mario Vargas Llosa. An historical novel by the renowned Peruvian author that tells the story of the Canudos rebellion.

Traveler’s Tales Brazil, edited by Anette Haddad. A collection of stories, articles and excerpts on Brazil. A good introduction to the people, culture and traditions of the country as seen through the eyes of modern writers.

Gabriela, Clove & Cinnamon, by Jorge Amado. A comic novel set in the 1920s on the frontier cacao plantations in the area of Bahia. Jorge Amado is probably Brazil’s best known novelist; another well known title of his is Dona Flor and Her Two Sisters. The novels have a certain soap opera quality but are entertaining, and shed light on many aspects of Brazilian society.

The Brazilians, by Joseph Page. An overview of the country, covering politics, history, economics, culture, and character. Comprehensive, but a bit on the long side at almost 600 pages.

The Lost City of Z, by David Grann. A history of the Amazon expeditions of legendary explorer Percy Fawcett, as well as the many people who followed in his footsteps trying to find El Dorado. Highly recommended for anyone going to the Amazon.

1491, New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus, by Charles Mann. A former best-seller that covers the recent and surprising theories among anthropologists and archeologists on the size and nature of pre-Columbian societies in the Americas.

12. History of Argentina

Pre-Columbian Argentina
Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, a number of different indigenous groups populated the Argentine land mass. It is generally believed that they were the descendants of the original settlers of the American continents who crossed the Bering Land Bridge connecting North America to Asia by way of what is now Alaska, from 12,000 to 20,000 years ago.

In the far south of Argentina, the Yahgans (also called Yamana) and other tribes subsisted as hunter/gatherers, collecting shellfish and bird eggs, and living in an incredibly harsh environment. In the center of the country, the Comechingones and the Guarani cultivated the land and created settlements. Some tribes never settled and continued to live a nomadic existence, hunting guanaco (a type of llama) and rhea (a bird resembling a small ostrich). In the northwest of the country, the Diaguita tribe established settlements around cultivation of corn and tube crops.

The Arrival of the Spanish
Argentina received less attention from the Spanish during the colonial period than more mineral rich areas such as Peru and Mexico. Fierce resistance by local indigenous tribes also inhibited much settlement into the area of what is now Buenos Aires, and also of the Pampas and the northwest areas of Argentina. Over time, the indigenous populations of northwest succumbed to disease, and settlement increased. From early on, the development of livestock farms for raising cattle, horses and sheep became one of the defining characteristics of the region. This is where the Gauchos developed, essentially the South American equivalent of America’s cowboys.

Buenos Aires continued to grow as a center of trade in the region. Resentment against the Spanish crown grew during the 18th century, for the same reasons it grew throughout Spanish South America: excessive taxation and inequitable treatment of the locally born population (even if of European blood) by the Spanish-born colonizers. Independence movements began in the early 19th century, and General Jose de San Martin led the local forces against the Spanish in Argentina, declaring formal independence in 1816. San Martin then crossed the Andes and assisted in the liberation of Chile and Peru, becoming one of the two greatest heroes of the independence movement in South America (the other being Simon Bolivar from Venezuela).

After Independence
There was little unity among the various liberated provinces after the Spanish were expelled, and the “caudillo” (or local strongman) culture developed as a way of filling the vacuum in authority in the country. Many of these caudillos resisted the centralization of power in Buenos Aires, but gradually Buenos Aires came to dominate the political life of the country and power was effectively consolidated there.

Immigration
During the mid 19th century, vast numbers of people from all over Europe settled in Argentina. Italians, Swiss, German, English, Welsh, Spanish, and many others entered the country in great numbers. The indigenous population had been declining for centuries due to disease and displacement, and as a result Argentina came to be populated almost in its entirety by people of European ancestry.

In the late 19th century, Argentina achieved great wealth through the production of crops, wool, and livestock, and foreign investment (particularly from Britain) contributed significantly to the development of infrastructure in and around Buenos Aires. During this period Argentina became one of the wealthiest countries in the world. However, the wealth was not very well distributed, and the economic calamities starting around World War I and leading into the Great Depression took a massive toll on Argentina. Social unrest began to grow, and the civilian governments found it difficult to manage the country’s growing problems and disorder.

General Peron and Evita
In the 1940s, Lieutenant General Juan Peron came to prominence, and became the populist voice of the country’s working class. He first gained national attention in Argentina by successfully directing the relief effort of a major earthquake in San Juan, while he was serving as head of the National Department of Labor. He came to power with the help of his wife, the actress Evita Peron, winning the Presidency in 1946 and 1952. The Perons built a huge following among the less wealthy parts of Argentine society, largely based on their charismatic and demagogic appeals to the less privileged. They instituted some wide ranging reforms, including giving the vote to women, establishing trade union rights, improving working conditions and wages, and making university education available to all.

The Peron years were tumultuous, however. In 1952, Evita died. Rising inflation and economic distress resulted in a military coup in 1955, and Peron fled the country. Peron remained a part of Argentine life, but largely only in exile, as he moved to different countries during the late 1950s and 1960s. The military junta ruling the country allowed him to return in 1973, but he was chronically ill and died in 1974. His second wife, Isabelita, took power, but was ineffective and incompetent.

The Dirty War
Growing left wing radicalism and insurgency were met with harsh reprisals by the military governments. In 1976, a period known as the Dirty War began, with the government cracking down in often violent fashion against perceived left-wing elements in society.

The Dirty War came to end as a result of the Falkland Islands War with Great Britain. In 1981, General Leopoldo Galtieri, in an attempt to preserve his hold on power, invaded the Falkland Islands and claimed them for Argentina. The Falklands sit off the southern end of Argentine Patagonia, mainly populated by sheep and penguins. They had long been a source of discontent among the Argentinians, who considered them rightly theirs and resented continuing British control over them. Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher proved to be more determined than Galtieri had reckoned, and the British sent a force to the Falklands and quickly dislodged the Argentines.

The 1980s
The country returned to civilian control after Falklands war, and Raul Alfonsin was elected president in 1983. For several years, the country struggled to deal with the history of the Dirty War and have some type of accounting, and it continues to struggle with it to this day.

The Financial Crisis
In 1999, Fernando de la Rua became President, but his term was cut short due to a severe economic crisis that gained international prominence. In 2001, the government un-pegged the Argentine peso from the U.S. dollar, and the currency quickly crashed, losing more than 75% of its value. The policy of pegging the peso to the dollar was intended to create stability in the Argentine currency (and was what made Argentina so expensive in the 1990s). The country still has a long way to go to recover financially, but the Argentines are a famously resilient and proud people. The currency has recuperated to some degree, and the economy has shown remarkable improvement.

More recently, Néstor Kirchner became president on May 25, 2003 and the country had a strong economic rebound. In 2007, his wife, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner became president and remains so today.

13. People of Argentina

Argentina has a population of about 40 million people. About one third of the population resides in the greater metropolitan area in and around Buenos Aires. There are also sizeable population centers north of Buenos Aires and along the western border of the country along the Andes, in Mendoza and Cordoba. The southern part of the country, in Argentine Patagonia, is very sparsely populated.

Indigenous populations were decimated as a result of diseases introduced from Europe, while massive numbers of European settlers, including Italians, English, Germans, Bulgarians, Ukranians, Basques, and others, settled in the country. Italian surnames are more common than Spanish surnames in Argentina. Argentina is home to one of the largest Jewish communities outside Israel, and there are also good sized communities of Middle Eastern immigrants in Argentina (Carlos Menem, whose family was from Syria, is among the most famous).

There are also sizeable populations of Koreans, Japanese, and Chinese in Argentina, about 100,000 in total. It is estimated that about 100,000 indigenous people still live in Argentina as well, many in the northwest Andean region.

14. History of Brazil

Pre-Columbian History
Prior to the arrival of the Portuguese in 1500, Brazil had been inhabited by a variety of indigenous tribal peoples, descendants of the original settlers of the Americas who are believed to have arrived by way of the Bering Strait between 10 and 20,000 years ago. Unlike some other pre-Columbian civilizations that established empires and monumental architecture, it is generally believed that the early inhabitants of Brazil were in large part semi-nomadic and never developed large urban centers, written records, or monumental architecture. There is very little in the way of archaeological remains that could provide insight into the history of Brazil prior to the arrival of the Portuguese in 1500. Some newer research suggests that perhaps the number of people and level of organization of the pre-Columbian societies in Brazil was much greater than previously thought (an interesting book on this subject is 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus, by Charles Mann).

The Arrival of the Portuguese
The first Europeans to arrive to Brazil were the Portuguese, led by Pedro Alvares Cabral, on April 22^nd, 1500. Cabral arrived with a fleet of 13 ships, carrying some 1200 men. The historical accounts vary as to how Cabral ended up landing in Brazil. One version is that he had been sent out with orders to exert Portuguese dominance and rule over the trade routes from India, and had drifted westward off course while trying to get to the Cape of Good Hope. Another possibility is that he set out from the start with a secret commission from the Portuguese crown to try to discover new lands south of those already discovered by the Spanish. Cabral and his men set anchor off the shores of Brazil in 1500 and were received quite well by the native population. After erecting a large wooden cross made of native trees, the Portuguese loaded their ships with fresh water, fruit, and firewood, and departed just ten days after arriving in hopes of exploiting the spice, ivory and diamond markets of Asia and Africa. Over the next three decades only a few trading posts were put in place by the Portuguese, mainly to export wood (which contained a much prized red dye) back to Europe. It was this red dye and the tree that produced it that eventually gave Brazil its name (from the Brazilwood tree). In 1531 King John III of Portugal decided it was time to impose more order on the vast territory, and he sent off a convoy of 400 settlers under the leadership of Martin Afonso de Sousa.

Settlement
Martin Afonson de Sousa was charged with the tasks of driving out any French settlers, exploring and mapping the territory, and founding permanent Portuguese settlements. The first two tasks were realized quite quickly while the third remained quite a challenge. After establishing a colony in the north named Bahia and two in the south, one near Santos and the other near Sao Paulo, King John III did not see how these colonies, separated by some 1500 miles, could possibly survive. To more thoroughly colonize Brazil, the King divided the coast into 15 captaincies, awarding lands to various Portuguese nobles who would rule over the land and help to develop the territory for Brazil. Progress was difficult due to the climate and continuing clashes with natives as well as with recent Dutch and French settlers. In 1549 the king sent Tome de Sousa to be the first governor of Brazil and to centralize authority. Sousa founded Salvador as his base, and that city remained the capital of Brazil until 1763 when it was changed to Rio de Janeiro.

Sugarcane
Starting in the 17th century, sugarcane, grown in plantations known as engenhos along the northeast coast, became the basis of Brazil’s economy and led the way to the African slave trade. After failing to enslave the local population to work these plantations, Portuguese land owners turned to Africa, importing approximately 4 million slaves over the next two hundred years. Some estimate that as much as 40% of the overall African slave trade went to Brazil. Long before the end of slavery in 1888 this large African population began to merge with the European population.

Throughout the 17th century both the French and Dutch challenged Portugal’s power in Brazil, though neither was able to exert permanent control over any territory.

Independence
In 1808, fleeing from Napolean during the Peninsular War, the Portuguese court moved to its then colony of Brazil, setting up in Rio de Janeiro. For 13 years King John IV ruled his empire from afar, and came to enjoy Brazil so much that he stayed for several years after it was already safe to return. Eventually, he felt the need to return as it became too difficult to administer the empire from afar. With his departure, he left his eldest son Pedro behind to rule over Brazil. In Brazilian lore, only a year later Pedro pulled out his sword and cried “Independencia ou morte!” (Independence or death), and with that declared Brazil’s independence and himself Emperor. Dom Pedro proved to be an incompetent leader and after just 9 years was forced to flee, returning to Portugal and leaving his 5 year old son behind to rule. His son was formally acclaimed emperor in 1840 at the age of 14. Emperor Pedro II ruled until 1889 when he was ousted by a coup which instituted the Brazilian republic.

Modern Times
From 1889 to 1930, Brazil was ruled by its first de facto president, and the country changed its name to the United States of Brazil. From 1930-1964, the country was governed by alternating dictatorial and democratic rule. The general instability eventually led to a military coup and a despotic junta that governed the country from 1964 to 1985. During this time inequality and political repression increased greatly, as did the national debt. In 1985, Tancredo Neves was elected president in an indirect election, returning Brazil to civilian rule, which has lasted to the current day. Dilma Rousseff, the former Minister of Energy under Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, was elected president in 2011 becoming the first woman to lead the Republic. Brazil’s economy has shown remarkable growth in the last few years, in both agricultural exports and high tech industries such as aircraft production.

15. People of Brazil

Brazil has a population of approximately 180 million people and is the most populous country in South America. Approximately 6% of the population is over 65 years of age and about 30% of the population is under 15 years of age. Sao Paulo has a population approaching 20 million, making it one of the largest cities in the world. Rio de Janeiro has a population of just over 10 million and is Brazil’s second largest city. Most of the population is concentrated in the southern Atlantic regions of the country and the nearby inland areas. Vast areas of the north and west of the country are very sparsely populated.

Brazilians are mostly descendants of colonial and post-colonial Portuguese settlers and immigrants, African slaves and Brazil’s indigenous peoples, along with several other groups of immigrants who arrived in Brazil mostly from the 1820s until the 1970s. Most of the immigrants were Italians and Portuguese, but also significant numbers of Germans, Spaniards, Japanese, as well as smaller numbers of Lebanese and Syrians.

16. Restaurant Recommendations in Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro

Buenos Aires Restaurants

Cabana las Lilas
Section of Town: Puerto Madero
Address: Avenida Dávila 516
Phone: (11) 4313-1336 (reservations often required)
Description: considered to be among the best parrillas (steak restaurants) in a town that is famous for them. In the modern Puerto Madero district; on the expensive side, but high quality.

La Cabrera
Section of Town: Palermo
Address: Cabrera 5099, Buenos Aires
Phone: 54-11-4831-7002
Description: In the happening Palermo district, a bistro that does the classic Argentine steaks and meat dishes, but with creative side dishes.

La Biela
Section of Town: Recoleta
Address: Quintana 600
Phone: (11) 4804-0449
Description: This is a cafe, with a lot of history, a great spot for people watching and having a coffee or lunch in a nice area of the city. It’s an institution in Buenos Aires, located next to a beautiful park.

La Brigada
Section of Town: San Telmo
Address: Estados Unidos 465
Phone: (11) 4361-5557 (Reservations recommended)
Description: Considered the best parrilla in the San Telmo area, with a lot of character and outstanding service.

Café Tortoni
Section of Town: Microcentro
Address: Avenida de Mayo 825
Description: a landmark in Buenos Aires, this is the oldest café/bar in town. Popular with locals and tourists alike, it’s a lively place to have a coffee or drink.

El Obrero
Section of town: La Boca
Address: Agustin R. Caffarena 64
Description: popular with locals and very crowded after 9 pm, this is a great place to come if you are looking for something with a lot of local character and atmosphere and very good food. Serves the parilla classics but also a range of other dishes. Football memorabilia for the local club team, the famous Boca Juniors, adorns the walls. La Boca is not a place where you should wander around after dark; if you plan to go, take a cab.

Evita Museum Restaurant and Bar
Section of Town: Palermo
Address: J.M.Gutiérrez 3926
Phone: (011) 4800-1599
Description: Open all day and a great option for lunch or dinner; a beautiful patio setting next to this small but worthwhile museum located in a elegant mansion that is a National Historic Monument. The building was used by Evita and her foundation as a temporary shelter for women and children. The restaurant is a destination in its own right, serving sophisticated and varied cuisine. Open from 9 am to 12:30 am (serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks/coffee/tea).

Las Pizzaras
Section of town: Palermo
Address: Thames 2296
Phone 11/4775-0625 (Reservations recommended)
Description: Not a lot of English spoken here, but a local favorite

Cluny
Section of town: Palermo
Address: El Salvador 4618
Phone 11/4831-7176 (Reservations recommended)
Description: Modern décor, inventive cuisine with more emphasis on non-beef entries than many Buenos Aires restaurants.

Sucre
Section of town: Palermo
Address: 676 Sucre
Description: A modern restaurant serving contemporary Argentine cuisine.

Rio de Janeiro Restaurants

Aprazivel
Section of town: Santa Teresa
Address: Rua Aprazível 62
Description: Ana Castilho has been running this restaurant out of her home since 1996 after hosting a community event. She serves up a variety of great Brazilian dishes, with an emphasis on tropical flavors. Great views of the older sections of Rio, in a charming, comfortable atmosphere.

Espirito Santo
Section of town: Santa Teresa
Address: Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264
Description: great location with a patio overlooking the hillsides of Santa Teresa; combines traditional Brazilian dishes with modern updates and also emphasizes Amazonian cuisine.

ZaZa Bistro Tropical
Section of town: Ipanema/Leblon
Address: Rua Joana Angelica 40
Description: A funky place, very well-liked for creative dishes reflecting South American roots with Asian influences. Colorful, fun.

Cipriani
Section of town: Copacabana, Copacabana Hotel
Address: Av. Atlântica 1702
Description: Known as one of Rio’s best restaurants, Cipriani serves northern Italian Cuisine. Good for a special occasion, more formal.

Paladino
Section of town: Centro
Address: Rua Uruguaiana 226
Description: A café/deli/lunch spot this is a good place to stop if you are exploring the center of Rio de Janeiro, as much for the atmosphere as for the food. Around since 1907, it’s an institution.

Careme
Section of town: Botafogo
Address: Rua Visconde de Caravelas 113
Description: A Brazilian bistro that put its owner into the ranks of the celebrity chefs. One option is a tasting menu, where you can try many different dishes.

17. Things to see and do in Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro on your own

Buenos Aires

Walking Around

Buenos Aires is a great city for walking around. San Telmo is a fun place to stroll around and check out the street life, stores and cafes. The Retiro and Recoleta neighborhoods and adjoining section of the Palermo neighborhood are filled with beautiful parks and is a great area to walk or go for a jog. La Boca is fun to see but is touristy and is not recommended for walking around outside the tourist areas. A nice, fairly long walk goes from the Plaza de Mayo all the way to the Congreso along the Avenida de Mayo. You can stop at Café Tortoni (closer to the Plaza de Mayo) or the Café de Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo (closer to the Congreso) along the way. If you like trains, you might take a ride on the “A” Line of the Subte (subway), which runs from Plaza de Mayo up to the Congreso. It’s the oldest part of the train system and the cars from the early twentieth century are still in use. For trendy boutiques and shops, the Palermo Soho neighborhood is a good option. Puerto Madero is a more modern, less distinctly Argentine place, but it’s also a pleasant place to stroll to see another aspect of Buenos Aires.

Art Galleries

If you want to check out Argentine art galleries (both contemporary and more traditional), Arroyo Street (where the Sofitel Buenos Aires is located) is a great place to see a concentration of galleries.

Museums

MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires): The MALBA is a must see if you are interested in museums and contemporary art. A beautiful building and excellent collection of modern Latin American Art. Located in the Palermo neighborhood.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: a very good collection of both Argentine and international art

Museo Evita: a collection that shows Eva Perón´s role in Argentine history

Futbol (Soccer)

There aren’t many better places to see a soccer match than Buenos Aires, particularly a game of either Boca Juniors or River Plate. If interested, there are tickets available for games where you will sit in a section designated for tourists. Ask us before you depart or inquire with our local operator when you arrive to see if a game is taking place during your stay in Buenos Aires.

Tango

There are many tango shows in Buenos Aires. They range from small venues in historic buildings, to larger venues with elaborately choreographed shows. Three options you have are the following:

Viejo Almacen: one of the smaller venues, in an historic building. A well-reviewed show. Like most tango shows, perhaps better only to see the show and eat dinner elsewhere.

Querandi: a small venue, in an historic building, with a show that demonstrates the history of the dance.

Rojo Tango: excellent dancers in a stylized show, in the unique and trendy Faena Hotel & Universe

Gala Tango: a larger venue, not as intimate, but with very good dancers, and an elaborate production.

Milongas (dancehalls) are another option for tango, where you can see locals dancing and dance yourself or take a lesson; venues change regularly so you should inquire locally with your guide to see what might be a good milonga during your stay.

Rio de Janeiro

Walking around in Ipanema and Leblon: One good option is to walk the streets and beachfront of Ipanema and Leblon (particularly Ipanema). It’s a quieter and more pleasant area than Copacabana. A fairly compact area, it’s great for a couple hours of strolling to see the stores and the beach scene and the different crowds that gather at the different “Postos” (lifeguard stands). Each one has its own type of crowd as you go down the beach (you can walk on the wide, pleasant, mosaic covered walkway the entire length of the beach). The commercial area of Ipanema and Leblon is just a few short blocks in from the beach and is also a pleasant place to walk around, window shop, people watch, and browse. There are a good number of cafes and restaurants in this area as well.

Botanical Garden: The Jardim Botanico (Botanical Garden) is a worthwhile place to visit. It’s a sprawling place containing over 5,000 varieties of plans, and was designed in 1808. A popular family place on weekends, it’s also a good spot to see locals enjoying a day out.

Niteroi: Across the bay from Rio de Janeiro and home to a modern art museum designed by Brazil’s most famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer (who designed the capital of Brasilia), this island is accessible by ferry from Rio de Janeiro. The museum is more noteworthy for the building than the collection, but they do sometimes have good traveling exhibitions and the building itself and views of Rio are exceptional.

Samba: for a night out to see some live music, where you can see locals mixing with tourists, a good option is the Carioca de Gema in Lapa (close to downtown Rio). It’s a fairly small place and it generally turns into a dance party. If you want to see live music, the best thing to do is talk to your local guide about what is playing where on the nights you are in town. In general, the places for live music and dancing are clustered in Lapa. This is a bohemian area with a very wide mix of people in the clubs and on the streets, so it’s good to know where you are going rather than just strolling around. There are also music venues in Copacabana and Leblon, and if you are interested in any particular type of music it is good to speak to the local guides to see what is available during your travel dates.

Futebol (Soccer): Rio is home to one of the world’s most famous soccer stadiums, the Maracana, which once hosted 200,000 fans when Brazil hosted the world cup. It is possible to go to games and if there is one in town at the time you are there, it’s a pretty incredible thing to witness. You should speak with your local guide about the options for going to games and he or she can help you get tickets. In general, travelers go to the game as a group and sit together. Highly recommended if you get the chance.

Please see our full list of Brazil Tour Packages here.

Please see our full list of Argentina Tour Packages here.

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