The Best Worst Way to Visit Versailles This Year

 

On a trip to Europe in 2022, my route took an unplanned detour to Paris. At the last minute, I decided to visit the Palace of Versailles, in a way that ended up being embarrassingly poorly planned (especially for an experienced traveler like myself). Even so, the adventure I had turned out to be one of my favorite days on my trip. See my tips on how not to visit Versailles (and still have a great day in Paris).

Don’t Plan Ahead

I bought my ticket the day before I planned to visit Versailles. In September, the crowds from the height of summer had somewhat lessened, but not entirely. Even so, because I waited until the day before to purchase my ticket, the earliest option available for me was at 4:00 PM.

Lesson: Do plan ahead and book your ticket to Versailles in advance.

Spend Most of Your Day Not at Versailles

Versailles opened at 9:00 AM, but my ticket wasn’t until the late afternoon. So I spent the morning wandering Montmartre, starting with breakfast at the Café des Deux Moulins (the café featured in one of my favorite movies, Amélie), then headed to Sacre Coeur for an unbeatable view of the city. After visiting the iconic marble Basilica, I walked down the famous 300-step staircase. Now, I love a good museum, but at this point in the trip I was in need of some serious self-care. With some free time still remaining, I got a simple manicure at a local salon, and bought some chic and colorful clothes at a thrift store. I was already feeling a little more French (and much more suited to visit a chateau!).

 Lesson: Visiting Versailles can definitely be an all-day activity, depending on your interest in history and architecture. However, if you have a few extra hours to spend in Paris, there are certainly many ways to experience the city “like a local”. Take a break from the well-trod paths to follow your own interests and see what you discover!

Head to Versailles Late and Arrive After Your Entry Time

After making the trek across the city for a brief stop at my hotel, I was now finally on my way to the palace. Thankfully, the train to Versailles is direct and easy to figure out. However, I arrived about half an hour after my ticketed entry time. (And they still let me in!) Because the palace closes at 6:30 PM, this allowed me only two hours to visit the 63,145 square meter estate with all its 2,300 rooms. Fortunately, my ticket also included the gardens, which closed later, at 8:30 PM.

Lesson: As always when traveling, but especially in Paris during the busy season, plan for extra time to get anywhere, whether that’s across the city, or heading out of it.

Don’t Get a Guide

I walked straight past the audio guides (which can be reserved ahead of time for a fee) and entered the first grand room to discover that it was full of other tour groups. I made my way to the front of the crowd to read a sign. To my dismay, the informational sign was only in French, and my one year of Middle School French class didn’t cut it. So I wandered through the opulent rooms without much insight or historical context, fed only breadcrumbs of information by eavesdropping on the passing guides. Even so, the famed Hall of Mirrors took my breath away. After soaking up as much splendor as my tired eyes could take, I stepped outside into the gardens.

Lesson: Unless you’re King Louis XIV himself, you’ll likely want to learn a bit about the palace while you are there. Pick up an audio guide or, better yet, take a guided tour – you can even bike around the grounds with Vaya!

Don’t Check the Garden Schedule

I had purchased an all-access Passport Ticket, which included entry to the palace and the gardens, including the Gardens Show. Just like the palace, the sprawling gardens have “rooms” of their own, formed by tall hedges that create secret enclaves, each anchored by a grand fountain. On certain days at certain times these fountains come to life, accompanied by baroque music. Luckily, the fountains were performing on the day I visited. These fountains were a delight to discover at my leisure, and ended up being one of the few things I did right on my visit to Versailles.

Lesson: In the summer Versailles offers a few different garden shows: The Musical Fountains Show, the Musical Gardens, and the Night Fountains Show. Check the schedule first to ensure the fountains will be on display during your visit.

Visit While Hungry and Thirsty

I hadn’t had lunch, and it was pleasantly warm out, so I thought it might be nice to spend my time in the gardens with a glass of lemonade. Once I’d found a stand that sold lemonade (among other stronger refreshments), it was closed. I still enjoyed watching the various fountains during the Musical Gardens Show, though doing so made me even thirstier. (Thankfully I always travel with snacks.)

Lesson: There are several places to grab a bite onsite, both in the palace and in the gardens. However, most of these are closed by 6-6:30 PM in summer (and earlier in the off season). If you plan to eat here, I suggest making a reservation, or at least setting aside time to refuel before your options close.

Don’t Pack an Umbrella

Just when I thought I could spend a little more time in the garden, it began to rain lightly. I hadn’t prepared for this­­­­, and the low, gray clouds had seemed to come from nowhere. It was just a sprinkle, but I took it as a sign.

Lesson: When you’re going to be out all day, check the weather forecast. Even if it’s summer and the clouds look innocent, it could still rain.

Leave Versailles Early Due to All of the Above

I decided to call it a day and meandered toward the exit. I took the 30 minute train back to Paris (where it wasn’t raining) and got off at the Champ de Mars Eiffel Tower stop. I met up with a friend who was also in town, and ate a fresh ham and cheese crepe for dinner beneath the Eiffel Tower. When, at precisely at 9:00 PM the iconic tower began to sparkle with thousands of lights, it was the crowning jewel to a wonderful day.

Lesson: Sometimes, leaving things up to chance works out in the end.

Versailles, someday I’ll be back for you – and next time I’ll do it right. Even so, thank you for a perfect day in and around Paris.

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