Croatia Island Hopping and a “Fjaka State of Mind”

Have you ever wondered what the secret to a perfect vacation is? In Dalmatia, it’s called fjaka—a blissfully lazy state of complete relaxation and contentment. And there’s no better place to experience this tranquil mindset than among the stunning islands scattered along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast.

Croatia is home to over 1,200 islands, and the Dalmatian Islands include 79 of the most beautiful and culturally rich destinations in the Adriatic Sea. In this blog post, I’ll share my top three picks for island hopping in Dalmatia: Korčula, Hvar, and Brač.

These sun-drenched islands, all easily accessible by ferry from Split, offer the perfect mix of natural beauty, local culture, and laid-back island life. Whether you’re lounging on golden beaches, sipping local wine, or simply embracing the art of doing nothing, these islands are ideal for anyone looking to experience true fjaka.

Korčula

Explore the laidback Mediterranean lifestyle in Korčula, an island paradise brimming with fig trees, pine trees, vineyards, and olive groves. Its medieval Old Town is a maze of crosshatched alleys radiating from a single street that divides the village. Compact and easy to navigate on foot (though filled with plenty of stairs), the town is edged with a pathway along the water, lined with charming restaurants and cafes.  

Fun fact: Korčula is rumored to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, and there’s even a dedicated Marco Polo gallery to explore!

View of Korcula old town, Korcula island, Croatia

Beaches

The crystal-clear turquoise waters of Korčula Island create the perfect backdrop for beach lounging, snorkeling, and swimming. For a relaxing day by the sea, two standout spots are Bavca Bay, located about 8 miles from Korčula Town, and Pržina Beach in Lumbarda, known for its shallow waters and scenic views.

If you’re looking for a more off-the-beaten-path experience, venture to the Defora Bays along the island’s southern coast. These secluded coves offer peace, privacy, and a true escape from the crowds. Most beaches on Korčula are pebbly, so packing a pair of swimming shoes is highly recommended.

It’s also worth noting that all beaches in Croatia are public, as the coastline is protected as a shared natural resource—open and accessible to everyone.

Wine & Olive Oil

Korčula is renowned as Croatia’s “wine island,” home to unique white varietals like  Grk and Pošip. Grk, in particular, only grows in Lumbarda, a small town surrounded by the sea on three sides and filled with crisscrossing vineyards. A wine tasting tour at one of the local wineries is a must. Be sure to savor as much of it as you can while on the island: these wines are hard to find on the mainland, and when you do, they tend to be quite expensive! 

A visit to Vela Luka, a sunny town on the western side of the island, should also be on your agenda. This town is filled with olive groves and offers a great opportunity to learn about the rich history of olive oil making, a cornerstone of Korčula’s culture and economy. Drop in for an olive oil tasting at one of the local shops or speak with us about booking a tasting tour. 

Lumbarda and the Adriatic sea in the background

Food & Drink

Korčula leans into the flavors of the Mediterranean and Dalmatian specialties, based heavily on fish, veggies, olive oil, and fresh spices and seasonings. LD Restaurant in Korčula Town is a Michelin-starred gem that serves dishes crafted from the freshest local ingredients by Head Chef Marko Gajski. The tasting menu and wine pairing bring the robust flavors of Croatia to life on your plate! The location is prime, along the waterfront promenade.

For a truly unique cocktail experience, head to Massimo Cocktail Bar, perched atop a tower in the city walls. This bar offers breathtaking views of the Adriatic, making it one of the most extraordinary bars I’ve ever visited. It’s the perfect spot to watch the sunset with a glass of Croatian white wine—pure paradise.

Hvar

While Hvar is often celebrated as the swankiest of Croatian destinations, it’s much more than just a playground for the rich and famous. Hvar Town is a visual delight, with its waterfront promenade, Gothic palaces, and 13th-century walls. Wander through Hvar’s narrow streets, ascend the stairs, and climb up to the 16th-century Spanish Fortress. From this magnificent viewpoint, you’ll be treated to stunning vistas of Hvar and the Pakleni Islands.

Fun Fact: Hvar boasts an impressive 2,724 hours of sunshine per year, making it a perfect destination for soaking up the Mediterranean sun. 

Hvar Town and view from the fortress

Stari Grad & Jesla

Venture beyond the opulent town center of Hvar Town and explore the charming coastal towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa, where the vibe is more relaxed with a local feel. You won’t have to look very hard to find charming streets in Stari Grad; practically everywhere you turn is a photo op! As a starting point, head to the Stari Grad Riva, and then wander up some of the fascinating streets off this main hub. Stari Grad is on the northern coast of the island and is surrounded by pine forests, olive groves, and vineyards.

I loved my stop at Tomić Winery in Jelsa to taste wines made from local grape varieties: Bogdanuša, Pošip, and Plavac Mali.

Adventure

From Hvar Town, embark on an adventure by kayaking or taking a private boat tour to the nearby Pakleni Islands. This stunning archipelago is a collection of 16 islands, dotted with pristine, secluded bays and beaches. According to legend, these special islands were created by the secret love between Poseidon and a nymph. It’s a magical way to explore the stunning beauty and mythical charm of this unique destination.

Kayaking off Pakleni Islands

Cafe Culture

Immerse yourself in Croatia’s legendary café culture. When the sun is shining, the terraces at every café are filled with people—all enjoying a kava and engaging in lively conversation. One of my favorite spots to experience this vibrant atmosphere is Caffe Bar Pjaca in Jelsa Town. Sweet Republic Hvar, in the heart of Hvar Town on the way to the fortress, is another great option. Pull up a seat on the old stone steps outside (cushions provided) and treat yourself to a lemon pie gelato—trust me, they’re known for it!

Café Anna in Hvar

Brač 

The island of Brač is the closest to Split and only a 60-minute ferry ride, making it perfect for a day trip if you’re short on time (though I highly recommend a full two days!). Brač is popular for its olive oil industry and natural white stone, which attracts architects from all over the world. The island also boasts the highest peak of the Croatian islands, Vidova Gora Mountain (2,552 ft), which you can hike or drive up for spectacular views of the Adriatic Sea. The coastal towns of Milna, Bol, Supetar, and Sutivan are all worth a visit, but my favorite is Sutivan for its cute harbor, old town, and beautiful Croatian stone houses.

Fun fact: Brač is famous for its pure white limestone and has a long tradition of stonemasonry. People come from all over the world to study at the Klesarska stonemason school in Pučišća and the course takes four years!  

Sutivan town

Me at the top of Vidova Gora Mountain

Zlatni Rat

Zlatni Rat, or the Golden Horn, is considered Croatia’s most famous beach. This 1,700-foot golden-pebbled beach juts out from a pine forest into the turquoise sea like a dagger. It’s an ideal spot for a few hours of swimming, kayaking, paddleboarding, windsurfing, or beach napping. The wind typically picks up in the afternoon, but one side of the beach always has calm water, offering perfect conditions for swimming.

How to get there: The beach is about a mile from the town of Bol and can be reached by walking along the promenade (about 20–30 minutes), taking the tourist street train (approx. €4 one way), or a taxi boat (approx. €4 one way).

Zlatni Rat

Blaca Monastery

For me, the true gem of Brač Island extends beyond the famous Zlatni Rat beach. In the 16th century, two Glagolitic monks fled the Turks and found refuge in a cave in Bol. These founding monks built a church around the cave, giving rise to the awe-inspiring Blaca Monastery. In use for over 400 years, the monastery has been added to the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List and now serves as a museum. A tour of Blaca Monastery reveals a treasure trove of history, including paintings, grand walnut furniture, a printing press from 1894, and even an 880 lb piano!

How to get there: Take a car up to the trailhead and then enjoy a short hike (about 20–30 minutes) to reach the entrance. Alternatively, you can walk up to the monastery from the port, but be prepared for a steep climb.

Blaca Monastery

Foodies

Like many places in the Dalmatia region, Brač Island is renowned for its excellent olive oil, local sheep and goat cheeses, fresh fruits and vegetables, and, of course, fresh fish. One of the culinary highlights is the roasted lamb, which is particularly delicious as the animals graze wild, enjoying a diet of local herbs straight from the bushes. It’s a true taste of the island’s natural bounty.

Konoba Bokuncin, a small restaurant in an old stone house on the Sutivan harbor, serves up amazing meals like homemade bread and gnocchi, and Brač lamb or seafood dishes cooked peka-style—slowly on embers under a metal bell cover. Ukusno! (Delicious!)

Cooked peka style!

Each of these islands has its own unique charm, making it tough to choose just one. However, a 9-day island hopper trip that includes all three, with 2 nights on each and a stopover in Split would be perfect. If you have a bit more time, consider adding Vis (Mamma Mia 2 was filmed here!) to your itinerary—it’s another favorite island of mine and easy to include.

No matter which islands you pick, you’re in for an unforgettable adventure! 

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