Varanasi is not for everyone. In a country known for its sensory overload, Varanasi may be its peak. Its streets are crumbling and often lined with trash, cows wander the same lanes as millions of humans, and burning bodies are an everyday sight. Yet, a visit to this complex, chaotic, and eccentric city will leave a lasting impression, one way or another. For some, it’s the pinnacle of the journey, while for others its simply another aspect of India.

My first visit to Varanasi was in 2009. It was at the tail end of a multi-month journey across India. On arrival, I hated it. It was dirty and busy and the cacophony of noises and smells felt exhausting. I hid out in my hotel, hoping to find some respite from the city outside. By the time evening fell, the sounds of the city had begun to draw me out – the soft bells of wandering cows, the chanting of prayers from countless temples, the rhythmic beating of drums, the honking of cars and rickshaws, and the lively chatter of the people. I walked to the ghats in the evening light and experienced my first Aarthi ceremony, which will forever remain a vivid and moving memory. Over the next few days, I fell into more of a rhythm with Varanasi. I learned to love dessert for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, I drifted down the Ganges at dawn (in a boat), and I discovered the friendliness of the locals. On the day I arrived in Varanasi, I would have told you I never planned to go back. Now, it’s become an Indian city that I look forward to returning to, as its nuances and complexity only seem to grow deeper every time.

Varanasi’s Many Facets

Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities and a pilgrimage site of immense significance for three major faiths – Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism. Nestled along the banks of the sacred Ganges River, Varanasi, also known as Kashi, Benaras, or simply the ‘City of Light’, has drawn mystics and sages, philosophers, and priests, for over 3,000 years. Beyond the Ganges, Varanasi boasts a wealth of historical and cultural gems and there’s a different way for everyone to experience Varanasi. Some of our favorites are listed below.

Take a (or many) Boat Ride

A boat trip on the Ganges offers a unique perspective of the city, allowing you to witness the daily life of its residents and the serene beauty of the river. Life on the river changes throughout the day. At sunrise, a boat trip on the river is a quiet and mystical experience as pilgrims descend to the riverbanks and temple bells toll. By midday, the river is the uproarious center of the city, and by evening you can watch smoke filter across the water from the burning ghats while the flames of Aarthi ceremonies swirl on shore.  

Get Out on a Walking Tour

The ghats of Varanasi are the heart and soul of the city. These steps leading to the Ganges River are more than just physical structures; they are historical, religious, and cultural touchstones, with each ghat telling its own unique story. Beyond the ghats, explore the tiny shops and street food of the back streets and alleys and observe the intricate architecture of ancient temples, such as the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the holiest shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva. Wander through the bustling markets, filled with vibrant colors and aromatic spices and make sure to keep an eye out for street art, a blossoming art form in this ever evolving city.

Meeting the Modern Masters of Varanasi’s Arts

Like writing and poetry, music and crafts are aspects of the city’s artistic past. The Benaras Gharana (school of Hindu Classical music) has produced some of India’s best artists. Visit a private family’s residence, giving you an insider’s perspective on how the art of classical music is passed down from parent to child.

Silk weaving is another art that is passed from one generation to the next. Interact with master weavers and learn how Benaras silk was sent by kings to Ancient Rome, China, and Babylon as a diplomatic offering in the 7th century BC. Today, handwoven Benaras silk struggles to compete with machine-made textiles. We work with an organization that partners with artisans in over 25 villages around Varanasi to revive Benaras silk weaving and takes these handloom textiles to some of the top fashion houses in New York.

Sample the Food

Varanasi is famous for its own style of food, as varied as the city’s cultural heritage. Varanasi loves sweet and fried things and street food stalls are the best way to sample as many tasty treats as you’d like. Indulge in the spicy flavors of samosas, the smoothness of lassi, or the aromatic richness of chaat. If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t miss the opportunity to try the famous Banarasi paan, a betel leaf concoction that is a local delicacy.

Alternatively, if street food isn’t your thing, enter the home of a local family and learn how to create local delicacies with recipes that have been passed down through the generations.

Varanasi’s Storied Past

Beyond its spiritual dimension, Varanasi has always been at the forefront of education, pivotal social movements and cultural heritage. It was the center of the Bhakti social reform movement during the 18th century, and poets and writers from this period, such as Tulsidas, Kabir, and Ravidas, spent a large part of their lives here. A walk along the southernmost embankment near Assi Ghat brings this literary heritage to life. Follow in the footsteps of Pandit Tulsidas, and discover the life of legendary poets, philosophers, and saints who shaped the city’s story.

Aarthi Ceremony

No trip to Varanasi would be complete without experiencing this otherworldly rite. The Ganga Aarti takes place every evening. Thousands of devotees and tourists gather to witness this ritual, filled with the sounds of chanting, prayers, and traditional music. The air is illuminated by countless lamps and candles, reflecting on the river’s surface as devotees offer flowers, incense, and other offerings. This deeply spiritual event symbolizes the reverence Hindus have for the Ganges. Many people will attend more than one Aarthi ceremony while staying in Varanasi.

Visit Sarnath

Sarnath, located just outside Varanasi, is a place of deep spiritual significance for Buddhists. Pilgrims visit to pay homage to the spot where Buddha first taught the path to enlightenment, Deer Park. You can also see the Dhamek Stupa, a monument marking the spot where Buddha attained enlightenment, and the Ashoka Pillar, an ancient relic adorned with intricate carvings.

Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together

Mark Twain

Varanasi is not just a place of pilgrimage; it’s a cultural melting pot where ancient traditions coexist with modern life. It is also chaotic, dirty, and undeniably overwhelming for all five senses. Discuss with your Vaya travel expert whether Varanasi is right for you to include on your trip to India. One thing we can tell you is that a visit to Varanasi will be unforgettable. 

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