How Hard is the Most Iconic Trek in Argentine Patagonia?

El Chaltén is a hiker’s paradise. Hardcore mountain and rock climbers flock here as a kind of pilgrimage. You may recognize the famed granite spires that scrape the skyline of El Chaltén from the logo of the outdoor apparel and gear brand Patagonia. The other-worldly allure is like something out of a fantasy story. It almost looks fake, a striking simulation, a manifestation of what rugged beauty is.

The most iconic trek in the area is Laguna de Los Tres, which brings you to the gorgeous glacial blue lagoon at the base of the towers. It is a challenging over 15-mile (24 km) haul, which makes for a long and intense day. If you are like me and enjoy a lackadaisical hike but are concerned about Laguna de Los Tres being too strenuous, you might be asking yourself: should I go for it?

I was recently in El Chaltén at the start of April and all of autumn’s glory was on display with fiery red and burnt orange leaves on the trees. The tiny town is cradled in the valley beneath the jagged peaks of Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and acts as a kind of base camp. My friend Nicole and I were picked up at the break of dawn from our lovely accommodation at Hosteria El Puma.We’d decided that we were a bit tired and would prefer a more leisurely walk rather than overexerting ourselves. It was our first day in Patagonia and we thought we would simply opt out when you take the rocky, steep path up to the towers, and meander back to town. Was it really worth pushing ourselves to do the steep slog up?

We discussed this with our guide Nico, and he assured us that we could do whatever we were comfortable with, and that we would have phenomenal views along the way of Mt. Fitz Roy regardless.

We jumped in the van with Nico and a few more hikers along for the day’s adventure. As we drove down the dirt road toward the trailhead next to the Electric River, someone cried out, “PUMA!“

We came to a stop and watched as she lurked in the bush, which camouflaged her so perfectly it was a miracle we caught a glimpse at all. Suddenly, three cubs came pouncing across the road to drink a bit of water along the edge before playfully leaping to join their mother in the protective shroud of shrubs around them. We all went berserk in the van, with oohs and aahs like kids at their first fireworks show. Nicole had her phone in her hand and was able to capture the cubs in all of their cuteness for a few seconds. Puma sightings in El Chaltén are extremely rare, but autumn is the best time for spotting them.

We started from the trailhead at Hosteria Pilar, located 10 miles (17 km) north of El Chaltén village, near where Explora El Chaltén is located. The hike began flat, over riverbed stones through a scenic valley. Nico pointed out the flora and fauna along the way — he was a wealth of information. As we entered a forested area, the trail had a gentle ascent. The path at this point was what they call “Patagonia flat” — meaning it was up and down but not too demanding.

We spotted some Magellanic woodpeckers that were almost within arm’s length. These wacky birds were not on my list of wildlife I wanted to see, but they are wildly cartoonish and such a joy to watch. The male’s mohawked head was a shock of crimson on top of his ample black feathered body. Nico explained that their tongues wrap around their brains to protect them from brain damage as they hammer away at the trunks. Their tongues then unfurl to dig for insects burrowed in the bark.

We came to the crucial point where we’d planned to say goodbye and were going to continue on back to town. It was another 8+ miles back to Hosteria El Puma, which is nothing to scoff at. However, something stirred in Nicole and me, and we swiftly talked ourselves into going for it. The weather was perfect, and after all, when were we going to have this opportunity again?

The climb to the lagoon is only 1 km but the elevation gain is over 1,467 feet (450 meters), making it feel five times farther than it is. You are on unsteady ground, as if going up pebbly stairs. You really have to watch your step even when the ground is dry. Also, word to the wise: there is a false summit. So just as you think you have reached the top, you have to keep on going.

Nico was an awesome guide who stayed with me as I took my time going up. It was not easy for me, but I did it. I was so gobsmacked by the vista that I felt myself tear up, full of pure joy. Looking back on it, I cannot believe Nicole and I were ever going to skip out on the epic view. That blue lagoon and those gorgeous grey spires cast a spell on my eyes and I was mesmerized. I sat and ate my delicious boxed lunch that Hosteria El Puma had provided with a goofy grin on my face. The ostentatiousness of nature to be so beguiling made me laugh out loud as I chowed down on my sandwich and snacks.

The trek back to El Chaltén village seemed crazy long in comparison to the equally long trail from where we’d started. The stunning views as the sun went down behind the saw-toothed mountain tops with the flash of fall foliage all around kept me cheerfully trudging along. It started to get dark as the flickering lights of the town came on to guide us down the last stretch, which seemed to keep elongating as if a mirage. But we made it back in perfect time to reward ourselves with a delicious dinner.

At Vaya, there is a shared belief that pushing yourself out of your comfort zone is part of the real adventure of traveling. This hike was something I would never forget nor regret. The divine views and sense of accomplishment are worth any momentary agony or exhaustion, like 100 million percent.

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